San Quentin Cooks celebrated another round of graduates from its culinary academy this June with a lavish gourmet dinner for administrators, volunteers, and outside guests cooked by the proud students.
The community-based organization has been running one of the flagship vocational-training programs at San Quentin for nearly 10 years with the goal of transforming lives through the power of learning to cook and serve fine-dining-quality food.
“I used to cook meth, but now I cook gourmet food,” said Duane Aguero, one of the 10 graduating students.
The students worked all day in the kitchen of SQ’s H-Unit to prepare the seven-course meal for the graduation banquet, putting their newfound skills and passion to the test.
“This class helps us understand we have unlimited potential and can accomplish any goal we set,” said Yanci Dakin, a teacher’s aid who plans on pursuing a culinary career upon his parole.
The menu was put together by SQ Cooks’ volunteer chefs — all with years of experience in fine-dining restaurants — and ingredients were donated by sponsor Chef’s Warehouse.
“These ingredients are some of the best of the best,” said Rachel, a first-time volunteer from Chef’s Warehouse, while she patiently led a student through how to balance the acidity levels of a vinaigrette dressing they were making from scratch. “This is what some of the best chefs in San Francisco are working with.”
The meal started off with sparkling watermelon and mint punch accompnied by a sequence of four à la carte dishes: za’atar flatbread and green chickpea hummus, cherry tomato salad with stracciatella cheese, castelfranco radicchio and frisee salad with caramelized fennel and walnuts, and warm heirloom-bean salad.
The main course featured lemon-garlic chicken with sunburst squash and marble potatoes piled high over a stew of coconut milk and peanuts with hen of the woods mushrooms, chickpeas, Okinawa sweet potatoes, and purslane. Last, but certainly not least, was a dessert of stone-fruit salad with ricotta, almonds, and paillete feuillentine drizzled liberally with orange blossom honey.
Volunteer chef Hannah said that she has witnessed how food and positive memories go hand-in-hand to break down barriers in a powerful way. “It is super rewarding to bring in fresh produce and fruits that inmates have never seen for years that they get to touch and handle and taste,” she said.
For graduate Milton “Tone” Alcantara, it’s about more than the food. “I’m stoked because I’ve grown to really enjoy working with the guys and volunteers in here,” he said. “The food is cool, of course, but I’m really looking forward to the food service, working together as a team. We really get along great. Feels like were not even in prison.”
Alexander Manzanares, another graduate, said, “The program made me realize San Quentin is a place where you can find opportunities. It got me ready to work in a restaurant. But the most important thing is the way the teachers treat us, always treating us with respect and giving us their time so we can experience something nice. You never expect to have such a nice meal in prison.”
Guests were impressed at the quality, variety, and professional presentation of the food curated by the up-and-coming incarcerated chefs. Many expressed their deep gratitude for the program and how unforgettable the entire experience was for them.
This included a local couple originally from South Africa. “I’ve driven past San Quentin so many times, but now coming here, I have a completely different perspective,” said the husband. “The people inside are very positive and nice. I’m impressed with the rehabilitative programs and everyone’s willingness to put in the work. It’s very refreshing, and we will remember this night for a long time.”
Also among the 50 guests were Bay Area couple Rafi and Tessa, who said the whole event was incredibly inspiring, a delicious and relaxing night full of laughs. Rafi said he sees the students as good people wanting to change and live their best lives. “Food is a common language and sharing a meal allows people to open up and make connections,” he said.
Chef Hannah’s son and mother were attendance. Her mom, Margaret, said that when she heard her daughter was volunteering at San Quentin, she wanted to come help, too. “I’ve always been curious about prison — we all suffer from something,” she said. Hannah’s son added that “food is such an incredible way to heal.” Both were proud of Hannah and the graduates.
Also in attendance was San Quentin’s warden, Chance Andes, who was experiencing the magic of SQ Cooks for the first time. “The meal was excellent, the service was excellent, the whole experience was good,” Andes said. “Overall, I was impressed —felt like a restaurant. Here we are at nine at night, still hanging out, all the volunteers and everyone contributing.”
Besides Chef’s Warehouse, the program is also sponsored by The Jacques Pepin Foundation, named for the chef whose cooking show is still popular on PBS. Their representative, Tina, said, “All of the students have been charming and the food delicious, so what more could you ask for? I give it three stars.”
The program’s founder, Helaine “Lainy” Melnitzer, shared remarks at the conclusion of the dinner service. “Besides cooking and eating and teamwork, our students have been studying these last three months for the SafeServe tests they just took,” she said. “Yanci, our TA, requested the managerial test, which few seasoned chefs even pass on the first try.” To loud applause, she announced that all of the students had passed their tests while Warden Andes shook their hands.
“There is a network so much bigger than you may realize,” she added. “So when you leave San Quentin, we want you to remember all the people supporting you. Like [lead chef] Adalar, who has been with us for eight years and says the best part of his week is when he comes in here to teach all of you.”
Hannah presented diplomas, saying, “It’s been an incredible 12 weeks. So many memories created, so much hard work and dedication, and we are all so proud of you.”
All in attendance left with fully bellies and warm hearts.
“It’s been surreal sitting with good friends, having amazing food and great conversation, while sitting in a prison chow hall,” said Jeramia Dupre. “It’s been very special evening. The only bad thing was we couldn’t leave a tip.”
—Journalism Guild Writer Jay Kim contributed to this article.
